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Galliano opens Paris Fashion Week

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Yesterday Dior unashamedly opened the Paris Fashion Week with colour and upbeat. It gave some stir needed after uncertain week in Milan.

John Galliano shaken it up for fan-base of high-profile young rich celebrity customers with his African inspired collection.

The rebel John Galliano used studs, staples, shells and python leather to toughen up thigh-grazing summer dresses in his Spring/Summer 2009 Ready To Wear collection.

Some were extremely daring combinations such as a fluffy chartreuse silk dress under an orange python coat or in a jacket with a cracked porcelain finish over a soft white dress.

Sleeveless silken jackets in abstract animal or spotted prints were belted for a soft silhouette and though the mood of the clothes was playful, fetish stilettos – all overlapping strings and straps – threatened but never downed the models. Hair, plaited and ribbed, was scraped back into severe African upstyles. “One of the subtexts of the moment is that so many people are looking back 20 years to the high eighties, when Parisian designers like Azzedine Alaïa, Jean Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler, and Claude Montana were in the ascendant. (Coincidentally, Martin Margiela has a 20th anniversary this year, and Suzy Menkes has been celebrating 20 years at the International Herald Tribune.)”

“John Galliano has had 1988 and all that on his mind, too, judging by today’s collection, in which he cast his eye back to that glamazonian era of corseted waists, pointy bras, Lycra leggings, and body-conscious knitted dresses—a time before the models on his Dior runway were born.”

The show took its place in a tent in the Tuileries gardens.

Warm applause greeted Galliano as he took his bow, but at least one guest couldn’t wait to skip the backstage ritual of air kisses and champagne. Lilly Allen of course.

September 30th, 2008
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